Kota (fort of) Kuala Muda

Greetings dear readers... Pleased to inform you. I'm currenty in Teluk Intan, Perak after leaving Ipoh last evening. Let's get straight to the story... Continue from where we left off at the Penang part of Kuala Muda...

After spending the night at a surau (small praying hall) in the Penang part of Kota Kuala Muda, I decide to head for the Kedah part. The date was 18th January 2007. I managed to get a bus up to a junction (forgot the name) where a road leads to the bridge past the Muda river.

I walked for almost 2km and was nearing the bridge when I saw a car which I feel could be hitchhiked. And so, I was taken right up the main gate (what's left of it anyway as shown in the picture) of Kota (the fort of) Kuala Muda... If memory serves me right, this was the capital of Kedah in the 18 the century...

There, a inscription of the fort's history. Unfortunately the picture taken is not that clear. Never mind, perhaps you have better eyes than me and can read it better... Who knows?

A building housing some remains of the fort...

There, part of what remains of Kota Kuala Muda...

Afterwards, I decided to walk to Masjid Raja, literally translated as the mosque of the king... Within the modern town that now carries the name Kota Kuala Muda... After all, the original Kota Kuala Muda is already ruined but the area lives on...

The mosque seen from a different angle...

An old canon, perhaps more than 200 year-old within the compounds of the mosque...

The cemetery besides the mosque. The yellow colour used on tombstone normally denotes a person with royal blood... Just look at how packed the cemetery is...

There, 4 sets of tombstones within an area normally reserved for one body... Get the idea how packed this cemetery is?

After spending sometime at Masjid Raja, I decided to walk to Sungai Mas. I heard there are some archeological remains there, so let's just have a look...

Thank God I found it... And there were some university people (can't remember which university) doing some excavation works.

Just look at that... The area divided into grids so they can concentrate on any particular part.

I had a little chat with the supervisor there. He was surprised at the way I look at the excavation work... Apparently, he saw me 'talking and enquiring to the site' about its history... Hehe! I won't reveal this. Let's just say, I got my own idea of the place using 'unscientific' means...

At the time, I was also delibarating, whether I should go to the Kedah part of Kuala Muda (Kuala Muda and Kota Kuala Muda are too different places) and whether I should also visit places like Bukit Meriam which is associated with Kedah's early history. This wouldn't be so hard if I had transport but relying on buses with schedules not so regular while at some points you have to walk far to reach a place can be very tiring. And as it is I was very tired while these places lie far off the major route I intend to take next...

I was in the midst of having an interesting conversation with the supervisor who was starting to reveal his Bugis roots. Apparently, being a descendant of warriors of old he also understands some spiritual means and that is why he was positive, I was actually communicating with the remains at Sungai Mas. Then came the answer straight to my heart... Don't worry, just head straight for Sungai Petani. Immediately, there and then I told the supervisor, I've received my instruction. It's time to go and so I walked off...

The Penang part of Kuala Muda

The time have come to return to the mainland... And so back to city and then to the jetty where the ferry awaits to get one across...

The city of Penang seen from the ferry. And as usual, there's the Komtar building in the picture, the tallest building in Northern Malaysia...

Suddenly an artistic feel came... Breathing the windy air watching the waves and the going-ons as the ferry ply the route can make one rather creative with the angles. So how? Not bad eh?

Another attempt to be artistic. Perhaps the picture would look better if both men are of the same height?

After arriving at the mainland, I got the bus to my next destination which is Kuala Muda, a place said to be among those affected by the November 26th Tsunami of 2004 although not as bad as that in Aceh. No sir... Here in Malaysia, there is no human casualty what more to run to as much as 200,000 deaths as at that country on the northern tip of the Sumatera island... Only the difficulty caused by destruction of infrastuctures including homes. Anyway, as it turns out, the Kuala Muda which I went to that day is still within the confines of the state of Penang. Seen in the background is the island of Penang.

Look to the north and one would see Gunung Jerai in Kedah, a beacon that 'lights' up the way of traveller for ages...

There, the Sungai (river of) Muda. This place is located at the estuary (the Malay word is Kuala), hence the name Kuala Muda. The river also serves as the Penang-Kedah state boundary. And so, the other Kuala Muda is situated across this river.

Notice the many colourful boats in the background. For information, this is a fishing port. The locals did show parts of the area said to be affected by the Tsunami in 2004 but most have been repaired by the authorities leaving little thrace of the calamity. Anyway, they said this part of Kuala Muda didn't suffer much... It was the Kedah part which got the main brunt of the waves gone mad...

The fishermen's landing point across the river... The Kedah part is also pretty idylic seen from here...

An artistic angle of the estuary, at least that's what it looks to me and as can be snapped using a cheap digital camera without wide view...

Hmm... This sort of scenery never fails to remind me of my childhood in Muar... Sigh...

And of course the boats. Never fail to have a look at the boats and the landing points when in a fishing village. Beats the point of going to one when you have not seen the activities around.

Ah... This piece wraps up the stories on Penang and also a session of writing in Ipoh, Perak starting yesteday that covers a total of 7 stories on parts of a rather long travelling session which started December last year. Ah... The relief of letting out. Now I'm ready to go to my next destination for the current travel, Teluk Intan, my father's hometown.

Hmm... Maybe I should add a story or two on my bi-lingual blospot SENI LAMA MELAYU (MALAY OLDEN ART) too. As for further additions to this blogspot, wait for my next wave of inspiration ya, take care!

Batu Feringghi: A day at the beach...

Good morning! Time to change tack...

After spending a night at Masjid Lebuh Aceh pondering serious matters regarding the fate of the Penang Malays and the actual state of the Muslim faith in Malaysia, I decided to play the normal tourist role walking the lengths of Penang's many interesting streets before heading for the famous beach of Batu Feringghi some 15km or so from the city.

Oh... Now I remember... I must have slept at Masjid Lebuh Aceh on the 14th. As my records show I was in Penang (Seberang Prai which is situated on the mainland is considered to be in Penang too) 7-16 January and that includes the day after spending a night in Batu Feringghi, I arrived at the beach on the 15th... And I was at Lebuh Aceh the previous day.

Anyway, on with the story...

This is how it looks like from the little motel where I stayed for the night. I have no problem practically sleeping anywhere to save money. Usually I would put up at mosques or suraus (small praying halls) which are available almost anywhere within a 2km radius in Malaysia as this is after all a Muslim country. But the thing is at those religious venues, I must be ready to wake up by 5am in the morning for the Subuh congregational prayers.

The time for prayers itself started at around 5.45 or so depending on your location on the globe while one can perform the Subuh alone by the latest at about 7am. But at such places, the caretaker almost always comes early to prepare the venue and it is not polite for you to be still sleeping and not join the congregational prayer.

This is OK if I'm not so tired travelling but there are times I felt so whacked or simply so lazy... And there are times it's easier to put up at a cheap hotel especially when I have bundles of soiled clothes to wash, so there...

OK... Can you see the sea already? If not, watch closely again...

There, if you still can't see the sea, you better replace your eyes with marbles or something like that. Or maybe as they say, you have lost your marbles... Haha!

This is how a typical day at Batu Feringghi looks like. The beach is the most popular in Northern Malaysia attracting tourists from all parts of the world. The Mat Saleh (a Malay term for the whites) really seemed to love this beach...

In the background is Gunung (mount of) Jerai in Kedai, the most visible mountain up north. The history books say that was how merchants of the olden days find their way and navigate to Kedah... Eh... I'm not supposed to talk about history here... Ish... Ish... Ish!

Another look at the beachside. A place to relax and cool down. So forget history and serious matters eh?

A look towards the north-east horizons. Seen in the picture are the hills making up that part of Penang... Hmm... There's actually another pair of hills in the picture if you are observant enough, haha! :]

The main road at Batu Feringghi leading to the city of Penang. There's a whiff of Phuket, Thailand here except for the prostitution... Thank God!

I always like the hills... So one for the picture...

And despite any attempt to revert my attention elsewhere, I can't also forget the mosque. Must be my age catching up... Cheers!

Masjid (mosque of) Lebuh Aceh. A trip down memory lane...

Hmm... I'm already too tired to write but must continue this posting however brief. Masjid Lebuh Aceh and the surroundings has such a strong meaning for me that I must let free the feeling here before I can hope of getting a good night sleep. Here it is...

Since learning about the existence of Masjid Lebuh Aceh some 4 years ago, I never fail to pay a visit whenever in Penang. Of course, the proper manners is that I should at least conduct the optional prayer Tahiyatul Masjid as sign of respect for having arrived at such a venerated place...

Hmm... Why did I say 'venerated'? Perhaps many don't realise this The official history books say, Masjid Lebuh Aceh and the surrounding area was opened some time in the 19th century by a wealthy Acehnese trader of Arab origin. Some added further, the said trader was an Acehnese royalty. But many don't know, the trader, Tuanku Syed Hussein Aidid actually became the Sultan, ruler of Aceh albeit for only 3 days before handing the throne to his son because he was said to suffer from a sickness!

The tomb area in front of the mosque. Again, many don't realise the existence of the tombs, that of a group of Acehnese royalty! Then again, the area is kind of sheltered from the outside because of the way it is flanked by anothet building...

The tomb of Tuanku Sayyid Hussein Aidid... Al-Fatihah...

The tomb of his wife, didn't get the name... Al-Fatihah too...

The mosque seen from another direction. I first came to this mosque in January 2004 and slept there for 3 nights... Before making a trip for Aceh when the country was still torn by war between the Indonesian national army and the GAM or Free Aceh separatist group...

This picture was taken when I was last there 16 January or so 2007, Lebuh Aceh (Aceh broadway?) and the surrounding area was still under renovation... Funny because I see the same renovation from the first time I was there in 2004. Why is it not completed yet? Or is it intentional to achieve certain purposes?

One thing I do know, although Lebuh Aceh has lost its granduer as the place for Muslims as far as Singapore and Indonesia to converge before performing their hajj to Mekah, it was still the main centre for Penang Malays of modern times up till the renovation started, I don't know when. Lebuh Aceh was known for its many Islamic bookshops but now it is not even a shadow of its past. For information, the works carried out has forced the Malays in the area to move elsewhere, all under the name of development.

It seems, they are to told to make way for the works and in time will be asked to come back. And so the shops that used to belong the Malays were left empty. At the same time, the Chinese who occupied other shops nearby could still be seen at large. Is there something wrong with this picture? Or is this something similar to the story of Central Market in Kuala Lumpur after it was taken over by a Singaporean outfit? Where the raised rental rate have reduced the presence of the Malays while increasing that of another ethnic group with more cash to play around?

Look at this. Sure, there is some progress but is it really any good for the Malays? Improved amenities and all the touch up to make the place worthy of a world-class tourist destination walk might be good for some but it could make the cost of living too high for the generally poorer Malays, forcing them to leave the area for the outside while the land that used to belong to them fell into other's hands?

Remember, the whole Lebuh Aceh area is actually tanah wakaf, a piece of land kind of donated to public used. Under Islamic law, no one could infringe or sell this kind of land. Then again we don't operate under the Islamic law. Although the present system inherited from the British did make allowances for such land, what used it is when the politicians in power could simply play with technicalities and turn everything into fair game all in the name of progress?

Or progress for some simply means that the Malays can go on living but only in memories preserved through the establishment of museums such as this... The house of the Al Attas family in Lebuh Aceh used to be a centre for Malay resistance against the British colonialists. Now, how much resistance can it put up against the economic onslaught of the Penang Malays? What is even more saddening, it appears even the Malay politicians have a hand in making the poorer members of society pack their bags for elsewhere. After all, who cares about history?

What is important is money... One only cares about history if it makes good speech in winning the heart of the voters. Isn't that the way of life? In fact some would even dare twist verses from the Quran and act like an Ustaz, a religious teacher to justify many wanton acts using the name of God! Truly the ends of times is near... Rotten people who are very good at pretending to be heros just like Nicholo Machiavelli's Prince get too run the country while true people of noble intentions are forced to fight the just cause from inside the drains! Allah! Do help us...

The Jejak Warisan or Heritage Trail signboard. Perhaps it should say: "Once upon a time the Malays used to rule this land, along with the dinasours and the trilobites..." Enough said! Good night!

Penang... As they say, the pearl of the orient!

After leaving Pulau Besar, Melaka 4th January I rested a few days in Kuala Lumpur. Then on 7th January, took a bus to Seberang Prai to join a cousin who was temporarily stationed there. He put up at one of the best hotel available in town. After all he is an engineer with the nation's biggest Petroleum outfit, Petronas. So for the next few days, I get to enjoy proper lodging like a VIP, just like I used to when still a journalist for The New Straits Times.

Oh... Actually just a day or two later (forgot the actual date), we got a shock when an uncle passed away because of a heart attack. I mean, we knew he was in a critical condition but we expect him to last at least until the cousin's job in Seberang Perai was done in a week's time or so. So we had to rush to KL to attend the funeral. Then only we returned to the North the next day...

This is a picture of the hotel where we stayed in...

The view from our room. Not bad eh?

As my cousin rushed out to do his job in another part of town, I went off by bus to look around. Here is an old Malay traditional house somewhere at Permatang Pauh. Notice the tounge-like carvings jutting out from the corners of the roof, the kind of design which I'm personally very attracted to for reasons still unclear to me right to this very day except that my heart says, it has to do with my Aceh ancestry.

This kind of design is used in parts of Perak mostly for houses and old mosque. When I enquired about its origins, most people could only answer that it is of an old Malay architecture. But when pressed further does it have to with Kelantanese or Pattani influence or such, none could give a satisfying answer.

My heart says, the design is of ancient Aceh architecture, something to do with old twin kingdom of Samudera and Pasai and there are people who believe so. Unfortunately, so far I couldn't find any documented or official evidence that support this...

Bukit Mertajam seen from somewhere off Permatang Pauh...

As the sign-board says, this placed is called Permatang Tok Kandu...

After about one week I stayed at the hotel in Seberang Prai, it's time for my cousin to return to his normal routine in KL. On the other hand, this was when my real journey to the North began. First stop... Since I'm already in Seberang Perai, just head across the straits to Pulau Penang or Penang, the place they call the pearl of the orient. And the most convenient way to get there is to take the ferry. Here goes...

The ferry as it leaves Seberang Perai. Another ferry was seen heading towards the opposite direction...

One of the first places visited upon arrival to Penang is this shrine-like mauseloum said to belong to a deceased saintly person known simply as Sheikh Abdul Qadir. This place happens to be on my walking root from the jetty. So why not pay a visit and get some blessings?

This famous structure is well-known as a major Penang landmark, the Masjid or Mosque of Kapitan Keling, named after the nickname of a community leader from India who landed here and help his people establish their business and presence among the locals...

There, seen it the distance is the 60-storey or so Komtar building, the central landmark of the city of Penang which could be seen from every direction...

Not far from Masjid Kapitan Keling lies Lebuh Aceh (literally translated, the Aceh Broadway) which used to be the Malay centre of urbanised Penang. This area is said to be opened by a wealthy 19th century wealthy Acehnese merchant and became the place for Muslims from as far as Singapore and Indonesia to converge before doing the hajj or pilgrimage to Mekah... By taking ships from Penang.

This curious little mosque almost smacks of Disneyland... Can't remember the name and location but it sure caught my attention. Cheers!