Batu Feringghi: A day at the beach...

Good morning! Time to change tack...

After spending a night at Masjid Lebuh Aceh pondering serious matters regarding the fate of the Penang Malays and the actual state of the Muslim faith in Malaysia, I decided to play the normal tourist role walking the lengths of Penang's many interesting streets before heading for the famous beach of Batu Feringghi some 15km or so from the city.

Oh... Now I remember... I must have slept at Masjid Lebuh Aceh on the 14th. As my records show I was in Penang (Seberang Prai which is situated on the mainland is considered to be in Penang too) 7-16 January and that includes the day after spending a night in Batu Feringghi, I arrived at the beach on the 15th... And I was at Lebuh Aceh the previous day.

Anyway, on with the story...

This is how it looks like from the little motel where I stayed for the night. I have no problem practically sleeping anywhere to save money. Usually I would put up at mosques or suraus (small praying halls) which are available almost anywhere within a 2km radius in Malaysia as this is after all a Muslim country. But the thing is at those religious venues, I must be ready to wake up by 5am in the morning for the Subuh congregational prayers.

The time for prayers itself started at around 5.45 or so depending on your location on the globe while one can perform the Subuh alone by the latest at about 7am. But at such places, the caretaker almost always comes early to prepare the venue and it is not polite for you to be still sleeping and not join the congregational prayer.

This is OK if I'm not so tired travelling but there are times I felt so whacked or simply so lazy... And there are times it's easier to put up at a cheap hotel especially when I have bundles of soiled clothes to wash, so there...

OK... Can you see the sea already? If not, watch closely again...

There, if you still can't see the sea, you better replace your eyes with marbles or something like that. Or maybe as they say, you have lost your marbles... Haha!

This is how a typical day at Batu Feringghi looks like. The beach is the most popular in Northern Malaysia attracting tourists from all parts of the world. The Mat Saleh (a Malay term for the whites) really seemed to love this beach...

In the background is Gunung (mount of) Jerai in Kedai, the most visible mountain up north. The history books say that was how merchants of the olden days find their way and navigate to Kedah... Eh... I'm not supposed to talk about history here... Ish... Ish... Ish!

Another look at the beachside. A place to relax and cool down. So forget history and serious matters eh?

A look towards the north-east horizons. Seen in the picture are the hills making up that part of Penang... Hmm... There's actually another pair of hills in the picture if you are observant enough, haha! :]

The main road at Batu Feringghi leading to the city of Penang. There's a whiff of Phuket, Thailand here except for the prostitution... Thank God!

I always like the hills... So one for the picture...

And despite any attempt to revert my attention elsewhere, I can't also forget the mosque. Must be my age catching up... Cheers!

Masjid (mosque of) Lebuh Aceh. A trip down memory lane...

Hmm... I'm already too tired to write but must continue this posting however brief. Masjid Lebuh Aceh and the surroundings has such a strong meaning for me that I must let free the feeling here before I can hope of getting a good night sleep. Here it is...

Since learning about the existence of Masjid Lebuh Aceh some 4 years ago, I never fail to pay a visit whenever in Penang. Of course, the proper manners is that I should at least conduct the optional prayer Tahiyatul Masjid as sign of respect for having arrived at such a venerated place...

Hmm... Why did I say 'venerated'? Perhaps many don't realise this The official history books say, Masjid Lebuh Aceh and the surrounding area was opened some time in the 19th century by a wealthy Acehnese trader of Arab origin. Some added further, the said trader was an Acehnese royalty. But many don't know, the trader, Tuanku Syed Hussein Aidid actually became the Sultan, ruler of Aceh albeit for only 3 days before handing the throne to his son because he was said to suffer from a sickness!

The tomb area in front of the mosque. Again, many don't realise the existence of the tombs, that of a group of Acehnese royalty! Then again, the area is kind of sheltered from the outside because of the way it is flanked by anothet building...

The tomb of Tuanku Sayyid Hussein Aidid... Al-Fatihah...

The tomb of his wife, didn't get the name... Al-Fatihah too...

The mosque seen from another direction. I first came to this mosque in January 2004 and slept there for 3 nights... Before making a trip for Aceh when the country was still torn by war between the Indonesian national army and the GAM or Free Aceh separatist group...

This picture was taken when I was last there 16 January or so 2007, Lebuh Aceh (Aceh broadway?) and the surrounding area was still under renovation... Funny because I see the same renovation from the first time I was there in 2004. Why is it not completed yet? Or is it intentional to achieve certain purposes?

One thing I do know, although Lebuh Aceh has lost its granduer as the place for Muslims as far as Singapore and Indonesia to converge before performing their hajj to Mekah, it was still the main centre for Penang Malays of modern times up till the renovation started, I don't know when. Lebuh Aceh was known for its many Islamic bookshops but now it is not even a shadow of its past. For information, the works carried out has forced the Malays in the area to move elsewhere, all under the name of development.

It seems, they are to told to make way for the works and in time will be asked to come back. And so the shops that used to belong the Malays were left empty. At the same time, the Chinese who occupied other shops nearby could still be seen at large. Is there something wrong with this picture? Or is this something similar to the story of Central Market in Kuala Lumpur after it was taken over by a Singaporean outfit? Where the raised rental rate have reduced the presence of the Malays while increasing that of another ethnic group with more cash to play around?

Look at this. Sure, there is some progress but is it really any good for the Malays? Improved amenities and all the touch up to make the place worthy of a world-class tourist destination walk might be good for some but it could make the cost of living too high for the generally poorer Malays, forcing them to leave the area for the outside while the land that used to belong to them fell into other's hands?

Remember, the whole Lebuh Aceh area is actually tanah wakaf, a piece of land kind of donated to public used. Under Islamic law, no one could infringe or sell this kind of land. Then again we don't operate under the Islamic law. Although the present system inherited from the British did make allowances for such land, what used it is when the politicians in power could simply play with technicalities and turn everything into fair game all in the name of progress?

Or progress for some simply means that the Malays can go on living but only in memories preserved through the establishment of museums such as this... The house of the Al Attas family in Lebuh Aceh used to be a centre for Malay resistance against the British colonialists. Now, how much resistance can it put up against the economic onslaught of the Penang Malays? What is even more saddening, it appears even the Malay politicians have a hand in making the poorer members of society pack their bags for elsewhere. After all, who cares about history?

What is important is money... One only cares about history if it makes good speech in winning the heart of the voters. Isn't that the way of life? In fact some would even dare twist verses from the Quran and act like an Ustaz, a religious teacher to justify many wanton acts using the name of God! Truly the ends of times is near... Rotten people who are very good at pretending to be heros just like Nicholo Machiavelli's Prince get too run the country while true people of noble intentions are forced to fight the just cause from inside the drains! Allah! Do help us...

The Jejak Warisan or Heritage Trail signboard. Perhaps it should say: "Once upon a time the Malays used to rule this land, along with the dinasours and the trilobites..." Enough said! Good night!

Penang... As they say, the pearl of the orient!

After leaving Pulau Besar, Melaka 4th January I rested a few days in Kuala Lumpur. Then on 7th January, took a bus to Seberang Prai to join a cousin who was temporarily stationed there. He put up at one of the best hotel available in town. After all he is an engineer with the nation's biggest Petroleum outfit, Petronas. So for the next few days, I get to enjoy proper lodging like a VIP, just like I used to when still a journalist for The New Straits Times.

Oh... Actually just a day or two later (forgot the actual date), we got a shock when an uncle passed away because of a heart attack. I mean, we knew he was in a critical condition but we expect him to last at least until the cousin's job in Seberang Perai was done in a week's time or so. So we had to rush to KL to attend the funeral. Then only we returned to the North the next day...

This is a picture of the hotel where we stayed in...

The view from our room. Not bad eh?

As my cousin rushed out to do his job in another part of town, I went off by bus to look around. Here is an old Malay traditional house somewhere at Permatang Pauh. Notice the tounge-like carvings jutting out from the corners of the roof, the kind of design which I'm personally very attracted to for reasons still unclear to me right to this very day except that my heart says, it has to do with my Aceh ancestry.

This kind of design is used in parts of Perak mostly for houses and old mosque. When I enquired about its origins, most people could only answer that it is of an old Malay architecture. But when pressed further does it have to with Kelantanese or Pattani influence or such, none could give a satisfying answer.

My heart says, the design is of ancient Aceh architecture, something to do with old twin kingdom of Samudera and Pasai and there are people who believe so. Unfortunately, so far I couldn't find any documented or official evidence that support this...

Bukit Mertajam seen from somewhere off Permatang Pauh...

As the sign-board says, this placed is called Permatang Tok Kandu...

After about one week I stayed at the hotel in Seberang Prai, it's time for my cousin to return to his normal routine in KL. On the other hand, this was when my real journey to the North began. First stop... Since I'm already in Seberang Perai, just head across the straits to Pulau Penang or Penang, the place they call the pearl of the orient. And the most convenient way to get there is to take the ferry. Here goes...

The ferry as it leaves Seberang Perai. Another ferry was seen heading towards the opposite direction...

One of the first places visited upon arrival to Penang is this shrine-like mauseloum said to belong to a deceased saintly person known simply as Sheikh Abdul Qadir. This place happens to be on my walking root from the jetty. So why not pay a visit and get some blessings?

This famous structure is well-known as a major Penang landmark, the Masjid or Mosque of Kapitan Keling, named after the nickname of a community leader from India who landed here and help his people establish their business and presence among the locals...

There, seen it the distance is the 60-storey or so Komtar building, the central landmark of the city of Penang which could be seen from every direction...

Not far from Masjid Kapitan Keling lies Lebuh Aceh (literally translated, the Aceh Broadway) which used to be the Malay centre of urbanised Penang. This area is said to be opened by a wealthy 19th century wealthy Acehnese merchant and became the place for Muslims from as far as Singapore and Indonesia to converge before doing the hajj or pilgrimage to Mekah... By taking ships from Penang.

This curious little mosque almost smacks of Disneyland... Can't remember the name and location but it sure caught my attention. Cheers!

What's wrong in being different?

Hmm... Before I continue with travel stories, let me just share a bit more of the English translation/ adapation of the chapter title "Bab 1" (Chapter 1 but it is not actually the first chapter) of the book "Berpetualang ke Aceh: Mencari Diri dan Erti" (The trip to Aceh: In search of self and meaning). Thi part continues from Chapter 1 of "Berpetualang ke Aceh".... Establishing the raison d'etre . Read on...

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Rasyid grew up in a family who highly regard academic achievements and religious upbringing. Naturally though, he is very inclined to read and study all sorts sof knowledge notwithstanding in what field… Likes to ‘swallow’ variety of books and encyclopaedia, enquiring into diverse subjects ranging from the sciences, mathematics, philosophy, history, civilisations and culture up to local tales, also legends and myths of old.
But what is more important, the lad wants to know Who created all this. Who is apparent behind all the knowledge he seeks… So much so that his family became totally perplexed because he always ask difficult and ‘irrelevant’ questions, questions that people simply couldn’t answer.
This would not be a problem if he simply ask about Who created the world. Everyone can say God, Allah. But when asked how does God looks like, where does He reside, how does He create, why are some things made this way, why some made that way, what is the explanation that could satisfy a bright young kid who likes to dig answers down to its barest basic and roots?
Coincidently Rasyid is not interested in money, wealth and possesion. While most people dream of becoming rich or being a millionaire, he is more comfortable living like a traveller without any possesion. Therefore many are perplexed when told about his interest and leanings… And the most puzzled is his family who hopes that the eldest among five siblings would achieve visible success, the kind of succesful life which can be proven by position, name and wealth worthy of his talents, abilities and qualification.
This young man also has rather weird aspirations. Since 18, he yearns to live in a highly civilised state with citizens who love knowledge… A peaceful country with no social problems and crime, with the populace not crazy about wealth, don’t like to talk about fickle things but rather discuss about high knowledge, creation of the universe, knowledge about God and such. Don’t know how these ideal state looks like but from what can be imagined, it feels something like Andalusia, now in Spain around Cordova but during the height of Islamic civilisation there, when the Sufi figure Ibnul Arabi was still alive 800 years ago.
As it is, Andalusia was known for its high civilisation and achievements… Full of artistic and highly aesthetic buildings, populated in turn by people of high ethics and proper manners. Its fame overshadowed that of Baghdad, the centre of Islamic civilisation of the time. It’s state of development would become the model for the rise of European civilisation, the movement which would become known as the renaissance. But where on earth can you find such a state now? In your imagination and wishes? Or just in your day-dreams?
Actually, Rasyid have always wished for a utopian world like the Andalusia he imagined since he was a kid. But it’s only at the verge of adulthood that this became a kind of crazy aspiration plaguing his mind and soul…
The lad is so excited of tales about highly civilised communities with advanced and beautiful buildings as potrayed in science fictions such as Logan’s Run, Buck Rogers in the 25th Century and Battlestar Galactica, his favourite television series. So, whenever he comes across the latest set of encyclopaedias or book on general knowledge, he would look for articles under the heading ‘future’ or ‘utopia’ to get a grasp of the ideal and perfect world mentioned inside.
It’s because of natural thinking like this that makes the Sagitarian often feels lonely with nobody to really understand what goes on inside his mind whatmore for him to share his thoughts and aspirations with. As it is, he’s no good at telling lies, being too damn straight and honest just like a character out of a fiction or cartoon story. Finally, Rasyid is ‘forced’ to become naughty and wild, the kind of boy who likes to make fun and mimic his teachers in school, weave stupid tales and tell jokes just to get attention… It seems, his friends are more comfortable with this than having to stand the ways of someone so different in thinking.
This is the reality of life. How many care about the mass of the moon as compared to that of earth or the stars? How many kids want to hear academic essays about the internal workings of the galaxies, the solar system and how the universe functions? Who could you get to discuss about God, the angles and the unseen worlds? It’s different if you talk about ghosts, magic, Harry Porter tales and such… Or stupid but entertaining stories,and jokes, even making fun of people with the ‘obligatory’ cursings here and there to make things more lively and attract attention. Now, that’s the way you can get many friends, isn’t that right?

Pulau Besar 3: Time to move on...

I'm supposed to have dinner soon so let me just be brief with this ya... As it is, I've explained a lot in Pulau Besar 2: Why so many long tombs? So there should be no problem in following the brief narration for the following pictures...

This are the long tombs or graves situated in a particular section of Pulau Besar known as Makam Tujuh Beradik (literally tombs of the seven siblings). Stories vary to who they really are... Some said they are a group of adventurers whose ship capsized here, some said they are not actually siblings but still related to each other, cousins and such.

For information this is one of the favourite area for those seeking favours through spiritual means to converge at. Suffice to say, some resort to means which practically look like voodoo and black magic to 'communicate' with hidden powers permeating this area... That is why the Islamic religious department of Melaka decided to tear down some of the buildings around as some the practices were said to have gone so much to contravene what is accepted in Islam...

This route up the hill leads to an area known as Makam Seribu, literally translated as the 1,000 tombs. The words should explain it all, it's just there's no tombstones to mark the alleged existence of so many tombs. But some claim, if the weather is right and one's intentions are pure plus it could just be your lucky day, one could see so many tombstones marking the graves just rising out of nowhere.

As to how there could be 1,000 tombs or more here, it is not beyond logic. Pulau Besar is the biggest island off the coast of Melaka and ancient Melaka, at least within the regions of 500 years ago was said to be biggest city in the Malay Archipelago. Thousands of ships were moored at Melaka harbour at any one time and some 84 languages were said to be spoken at its market. So Pulau Besar naturally serves as a temporary harbour for traders and visitors waiting their turn to moor at the very busy Melaka harbour. It is logical that some died out of any reason like old age, disease or simply any natural causes while being nearby at Pulau Besar and thus they were buried there.

But as Pulau Besar is said to be home to many tombs belonging to warriors and religious figures, the explanation given by locals was that the tombs belong those who fought for Islam after Western colonialisation began to set in in this part of the world starting 16th century AD. After Melaka was seized by the Portugese in 1511 and then the Dutch in 1641, several attempts were made to free the city from the colonialists...

Among those who fought the Westerners were the forces of Aceh and Johore. It is natural, there's bound to be casualties in war and battle and some were believed to have been buried at Pulau Besar, being the nearest most convenient place to do so.

Hmm... Time is really running out for me. My friend must be waiting for at his place for dinner and I've promised to be brief here. It's just sometimes the story-telling got the better of me, so there. Anyway, above is part of Pulau Besar which visitors should find rather idylic...

The Sultan Ariffin Sheikh Ismail tomb complex...

Sheikh Ismail's tomb. Just look at the length!



This is one of the tombs on the coastal route... Forgot whether this one belongs to Tok Janggut or Tok Putih. For explanation, read Pulau Besar 1: Enter the 'big' island! again...

The above grave seen from another perspective. Now it does look really long...

Part of Pulau Besar seen as I took the walk towards the jetty to leave Pulau Besar.

Here, I'm already in the city of Melaka, going through a street called Jalan (the road of) Sayyid Abdul Aziz, named after the person said to convert the first king of Melaka to Islam sometime in the 1400s...

Part of Melaka Sentral, the main station for inter-city bus. Here is where I got the bus back to Kuala Lumpur. Enough for now, take care!

Pulau Besar 2: Why so many long tombs?

OK... I've had my dinner, in fact I also had a long nap and then a brief kebab meal after visiting the local pasar malam, a Malaysian equivalent for the flea market. Let us continue... Straight to the story about the tombs of Pulau Besar!

This is the complex housing the main tomb at Pulau Besar, the tomb of a person of high saintly status called Sultan Ariffin Sheikh Ismail. Now, many thought he is king as implied by the word Sultan and that Ariffin is also part of his name. Well, they got it wrong. This saint's name is actually Ismail, same name as the eldest son of the Prophet Abraham Alaihissalam. For information, the name Sultan Ariffin is actually a honorific to denote him as the king of the Ariffins, who really know God and has experienced gnosis. On the other hand, he is after all a king... It's just not in the usual sense of a royalty residing inside a palace ruling a kingdom and it's subjects in an everyday manner, no...

Bear in mind though the word Ariffin here is a Sufi or Tasawuf term derived from the Arabic root-name Arif - the person who knows. As in how do you truly know God? Well, you have to ask the masters about that. I will not attempt to describe much as this is a very difficult matter, one that could cause great confusion if not explained properly while a proper explanation could only be made to someone who already has the proper experience and training... Just like you can only truly explain Einstein's Theory of General Relativity to someone who have studied Tensor Calculus, that is high level mathematics.

Oh... I forgot to mention who Sultan Ariffin Sheikh Ismail is.... By the way, the name Sheikh is to denote that he is a religious master. For information, he is a fourth-generation (if memory serves me right) descendant of the much celebrated Sufi grandmaster Sheikh Abdul Qadir al-Jilani, the founder of the Qadiriyah tariqat or spiritual way who lived in 12th century Baghdad. According to the legends, Sheikh Ismail first came to the Malay Archipelago to find the kingdom of Samudera (in present-day Aceh) and guide the whole population to Islam, especially the king Merah Silu who was later proclaimed as Sultan Malikus Salih, king of the pious ones! As to how he ended up in Pulau Besar near the coast of Melaka, well, I don't think I have a proper answer for that. So let's just let sleeping dogs lie ya...

This is the tomb of Sharifah Rodziah, said to be a grand-daughter of Sheikh Ismail situated a small distance away from the complex housing the tomb of Sheikh Ismail but still within the overall compound. Notice the length of the tomb? I reckon not less than 20 feet long!

Then again, the tomb of Sheikh Ismail itself is about 30 feet long while next to it, within the same complex lies a much longer tomb, almost 50 feet long said to belong to Sheikh Ismail's teacher, Sheikh Yusuf as-Siddiq!

There, another long tomb, methinks within 20 feet long too but situated some 500 metre from the Sheikh Ismail tomb complex. If the previous tombs in this article are said to belong to highly religious figures, this one belonging to another legendary figure simply known as the nenek kebayan, an old female is among the exception. Not that she was not religious... For nobody knows that for sure and it is not wise to question one's faith without knowing the actual truth. Only that nenek kebayan is considered more of a magical mystical figure... She might be ugly like an old hag but the nenek kebayan have appeared in many Malay folklores as the gentle grandma-like figure who helped plenty of prince and princess in distress including matchmaking those in love but facing great difficulty in tying the knot because of objections from other parties! As to why she is buried here, hmm... Now I'm really dumb-founded!

Oh... Now we can get to the question posed in the title of this article... Pulau Besar, why so many long tombs. First we must know why the tombs are so long... It is not because the persons buried were giants or very tall? Nope, that would be very ackward as can be seen by the look of the tombs... How can you have someone 20 to 50 feet long but the width of the body still about 2-3 feet maximum just like a normal man? Can you imagine that?

Hmm... Maybe you could imagine a 50 foot tall man with his shoulders 3 feet wide but doesn't that look funny? How can you walk around with a body like that and become a venerated religious teacher some more? Heh! Now I'm being stupid, hehe!

Anyway, in old Malay beliefs, such long tombs actually denotes people of high spiritual status. Because of the favours bestowed from God due to their religiousness or good manners and intentions when alive, their tombs become elongated in time so that people in latter times could immediately recognise their status, at least this is what I understand about the long tombs.

As for why there's so many long tombs in Pulau Besar, isn't the answer now obvious? It simply means there's so many people of high spiritual standing buried on this island. And so that also explains why it is called Pulau Besar which literally means the 'big island'. Physical-wise, the island's size is only about 170 hectares but status wise, it is big enough to attract people interested in mystics from all parts of the Malay archipelago. In fact, the existence of Sheikh Ismail's tomb attracted visitors from as far as India, Pakistan and Africa too as he was after all a Qadiriyah grandmaster just like his great-grandfather Sheikh Abdul Qadir al-Jilani, the man known as Sultanul Awliya, the king of the saints!

Just a few metres from the tomb of nenek kebayan lies her well, the well of nenek kebayan! The story goes that one can dip one's hand inside the shallow muddy waters and if luck is on their side, they might get souvenirs like old coins, even precious stones like rubies and ancient weapons like a kris from the olden days!

Now, study the picture carefully. The well is actually situated within the confines of a golf course built to attract more visitors to the island especially the rich. But according to local tales, the 'powers-that-be' were not pleased. And so the golf course was built but the whole project including an already completed clubhouse worthy of a five-star establishment was left languishing only to be the playground for small-time adventurers like me, yeah! :]

Look at the far end showed in this picture, another abandoned major project after it has well taken off. The project was really a major one... I believe there's more than 10 blocks of 5-storey or so lavish apartment buildings definitely worthy of a five-star establishment. I've walked an 'played' at the area a few times and to me, the design made me feel like being in Italy or the Mediterraneans! The whole complex also reminded me of the Tivoli Villas, once considered among the most prestigous apartment area in the Klang Valley.

Problem is they say there were 'disturbances' that caused the project to be abandoned after it was almost completed... Apparently the workers got spooked by something while prospective future buyers got hint of a series of weird happenings involving the supernatural and decided it was not worth the trouble. The complex looks ready to be used except no appliance was fitted. So anyone can come and enjoy the five-star facility there, that is if you can stand being spooked just like in the movie Exorcist. Then again nowadays, one is now not so free to venture there as the owners has employed security guards to shoo away unwelcomed visitors. The news is the project is to be revived...

About half a year ago, I entered Pulau Besar at night and saw the lights coming out from that part of island just like at a full-fledged city. So does that mean, the apartment complex will soon have people occupying it? Well, in this particular visit in January, I found out it was all more for show... Maybe the owners want to give the impression that whatever spooked the place the last time has been cleared an the place is now ready to be a full-fledged resort... Maybe what I saw then was just an exercise to check that the electrical supply is all in order. But the locals say, the 'powers-that-be' won't allow any success as it means, unclean activities will come surging into the island... When one have foreign visitors coming in the droves, one is sure to see alcohol and fornications coming in too. That is why until now, the apartment complex remain as it is... Beautiful yes but empty...

This is the route to one of my favourite escapades on the island, a strip of beach that only a few knows where it is and how to get there. Often, I like to bath and swim in the nude and this is one of the open places in which I can indulge in this 'hobby'!, hehe! :]

The apartment complex seen from my favourite strip of beach...

And this is my very own istana hinggap, my 'weekend palace' or so... A friend who have stayed in Pulau Besar for more than 10 years built it himself and this is where I often stay when I'm here, that is when I'm not urged to sleep elsewhere like in front of the tombs or somewhere more 'exotic' like a certain cave facing the seas. Cheerio! :]

Pulau Besar 1: Enter the 'big' island!

Greetings dear friends and readers. I'm currently in Ipoh, Perak and still travelling on the road after leaving the comfort of my auntie's place in Ampang almost 3 weeks ago. As promised, I would add more pictorial stories here based on a travelling session starting December last year which practically lasted into February to cover places on the East Coast, the South and then North Peninsular. Meanwhile, stories of my current travel can be gleamed at my all-Malay blogspot CATATAN SI MERAH SILU .

Let me continue from where we left off here on Thursday, from the story titled In Kuala Lipis to settle an old 'debt'?. Chronologically, after Kuala Lipis, the next story should be on the town Muar, the place I was born at as after returning to Kuala Lumpur in that particular session of travelling, I went down South to be in my hometown in time for the Aidil Adha celebration.
But following some urge sometime ago, I already did some pictorial stories on these in Pictures in Muar, Some more pictures in Muar and Pictures in Muar 3. Thus let us start this new session of story-telling on the island known as Pulau Besar in Melaka, a mysterious place said to be full of mystical powers. Go on... Enjoy it!

Third January 2007. After spending some time with the family in Muar, Johore, it is time to return to Kuala Lumpur. Besides, after that, I intend to head up North. A cousin who is an engineer was temporarily stationed at Seberang Prai and he asked me to join him and stay at a comfortable hotel there whenever I'm ready.

Since I'm already somewhere near Melaka, I might as well visit Pulau Besar, the mystical Island I last dropped by at maybe more than six months ago. So without much further ado, I took the non-express bus to Melaka... Dropped at the Anjung Batu junction some 15km before the historical city and got on the ferry to the island, the biggest off the coast of the state of Melaka.

As it turned out, the water was very choppy that day, the worse I've experienced in the 9-10 trips I've made to the place the last 4 years or so. Often the ferry felt like it was about to overturn as the waves tossed it up and about, at times sea-sickness began to set in reminding me of the time when I was small travelling in dad's car meandering through the old route of KL to Raub, Pahang and then having to stop by the roadside to throw up!

As the bad weather continued without any sign of abetting, came to mind, tales of how some boats went down because there's people on it who wanted to go to Pulau Besar with bad intentions. The story goes that the island is guarded by mystical powers which require those who come to maintain purity at heart. But that was some time ago when the unseen powers that are said to permeate the island were much more potent. Nowadays with the advent of a more liberal modern life, a lot of taboos have been broken causing some of the said powers to 'migrate' elsewhere!

The weather was still choppy but at least we were nearing the island. People said, although Pulau Besar is not as 'potent' as before, still there were cases of boats going down and people drowning because the 'powers-that-be' don't like some of them onboard. Maybe there were people trying to bring alcoholic drinks which are forbidden in Islam, maybe there were couples on board who intend to use the island as the place to satisy their hormones without being caught? As for me, I intend to make a visit and pay some respect at the tomb of some elders which are said to be saints of Islam. Hopefully the journey would eventually smoothen up!

There, the jetty is already in sight. But we are still some 200 metres off the coast. Maybe I can breathe a sight of relief while keeping my fingers crossed...

Ah... Now I can sigh with real relief... Time to walk... At least I know I'm a much better walker than a swimmer...

At the end of the jetty one can see the signboard to a resort, the biggest on the 170 hectare or so island. This place has changed names and ownership at least three times, they say because the owners can't make ends meet. Despite the Melaka's government attempt to turn the island into a full-fledged resort, despite its peaceful and beautiful surroundings, despite it being the only island within a hundred mile radius worth having a holiday on, there seemed to be some unseen obstructions that hampers any attempt to develop it beyond a certain limit. Perhaps the 'powers-that-be' has a hand in it? Perhaps they don't want the island to be fully developed as a resort destination knowing that often in such resorts, there would be moral transgressions, people drinking, couples out of wedlock fornicating and such?

Rather than walking through parts of the resort, I prefer using the coastal route. Suddenly an old dream of 7 years ago or so came to mind, a dream, where I embarked on an unfamiliar jetty somewhere only to be greeted by two ghostly figures which managed to spook me out. That was then before I learned of my ancestry and how it would totally change my life later on. As it turned out, I finally decided to step on Pulau Besar in 2003... That's when I found out, the jetty in that dream and surroundings looked exactly as the real one greeting me at the island!

Not only that, along the coastal route, there exist two mysterious tombs belonging to two legendary figures, one religious another a warrior known simply as Tok Putih and Tok Janggut. Are they the ones who greeted me in the dream? Maybe, I don't know... As to who they really are and which era they came from , the stories vary. But most pointed out Tok Putih as a religious teacher of saintly status while Tok Janggut is the warrior from Aceh who was the bodyguard...

This the tomb just outside the building which houses the main tombs at Pulau Besar especially the tomb of someone known as Sultanul Ariffin Sheikh Ismail. This tomb is said to be of someone related to Sheikh Ismail, perhaps a son, grandchild or so...

OK, I've got to run... Someone's waiting at the place I'm staying in Ipoh for lunch. Cheers! :]