Enter Tok Pulau Manis

Just before afternoon 21th December 2006, I left Kuala Berang. After walking for some distance and hitchiking two lorries, I managed to get to the point seen above...

From there I walked and reached the fringe of Kampung (village of) Pulau Manis.

I passed the mosque of Pulau Manis. Normally went travelling, I would stop by at the main mosque in the area where I intend to spend the night. But my target was somewhere else...

There. The signpost pointing to where I want to go, the tomb of Tok Pulau Manis... Literally translated the elder of Pulau Manis. The title Tok is also used to denote a grandfather. In this case, it is for a respected elder, a very respected one at that! So who is he? A village headman, a prince? Be patient ya...

There... See the blue coloured building? It is the surau (small praying hall) of Tok Pulau Manis...

Right in front of the surau is an old cemetery perhaps in the region of 400 years old or so! Spooky for some but very peaceful for spiritual travellers like me.

There's a roofed pathway leading to the tomb... There's even a building housing the remains of Tok Pulau Manis. Must be a person of high standing isn't he? So again, who is he?

Hmm... Graves here and there. Again, scary for some but perfect solitude for me...

Look at this one. A friend who followed me once here commented: "It looks like water tumblers!"... Indeed it does. But bear in mind, this is an ancient type of tombstone and from the looks of it, it belongs to someone of high standing too!

The door leading to the main tomb inside. Suddenly the words Tomb Raider came to mind. Would the real Lara Croft step up and join? For a round of.... Um... Err....

Here it is, the tomb of Tok Pulau Manis. Or as the Jawi inscriptions say, Tok Sheikh Pulau Manis, Sheikh as in a religious teacher... Beginning to get the idea?

And up there a description of the life of Tok Pulau Manis, who is he and such in Malay... Suffice to say, he was a famous Muslim saint of 17th century Terengganu, the teacher, also a father-in-law to Sultan Zainal Abidin I, the first ruler of Terengganu from the current dynasty!

Oh... His real name is actually Sharif Abdul Malik. He was called Tok Pulau Manis in respect of the village he came from, that is Pulau Manis! Then again some, said the village got its name because of him! Because more than 300 years ago, the area is a pulau, an island... And the name Manis which is Malay for sweet came about when Tok Pulau Manis did a miracle by dipping his feet into the salt water around (they say it was salty then) and turned it into sweet freshwater fit for drinking!

After a night there, it's time to go. So off I went through this meandering path...

Then only I reached this cute bus-stop... The travel must go on. Cheers!

A look at Kuala Berang...

Greetings dear readers. Today, I've decided to start updating this blogspot using material unused since last year. For information, I've done plenty of travelling all my life but it's only since September 2006 that I've decided to record some of the places I've been at on camera.
All this while, I'd rather keep all the memories good and bad to myself as I don't feel the need to show to anyone or prove where I've been. But September 9th 2006 changed this when the remains of my great-great-great grandfather, Laksamana (Royal Admiral) Muhammad Amin was brought back to Perak's royal mausoleum after languishing for some time in Singapore due to a ban by the British colonialist on some 19th century Perak freedom fighters from returning to this land.

It was a rare historical moment of national, even internatiol proportion and I'll be a fool if I don't record a bit of the proceedings for posterity at least for family members to view. For information, click The return of Admiral Muhammad Amin's remains... .
This particular posting can be said to be a continuation of some pictorial stories about Terengganu made sometime ago. Chronologically, you can see this article picks up from where Gambar bersejarah Kuala Terengganu (Historical pictures of Kuala Terengganu) in my bilingual blogspot SENI LAMA MELAYU (MALAY OLDEN ART) left off... So go on, hope you enjoy it! Cheers! :]

Somewhere in the district of Kuala Berang towards the rural parts of the state of Terengganu, there is a place called Jenagor at the far reaches of the Terengganu river. One fine day December 20th of 2006 I went there to visit a rather mysterious and historical site nearby...

First I must go through this area. For information, the site in question along with the embarkation points are guarded by a group of people who styled themselves as the guardians of some lost Malay history.

From there, one can go down the steps to Terengganu river...

As it turns out, it was bad timing for me. It was low tide while much of this part of Terengganu river is rendered not so navigable by boat because of heavy silting, they say due to some development upriver.

I looked around. The special and mysterious site which I intend to visit is located rather far away across the river. The only realistic way to get there is by boat, have to wait sometime till high tide... Even then one have to labour, step into the water and push the boat at some parts. And the boat have a rather limited capacity while there are those who claimed they have been waiting the last three days for the chance to get across. The weather was not so fine anymore...

After deliberating for some time, I decided to zoom off. Instead, I went to this old mosque at Kampung Buloh where I spent the night...

Not far from the mosque is this scene. See... The banks of the Berang river is starting to overflow because of heavy rain. The river feeds into the bigger Terengganu river. That's why the area is called Kuala (estuary of) Berang!

This is the main mosque of Kuala Berang. I once slept there during a previous visit. At the time, I managed to get across the Terengganu river by boat to get to the mysterious site of this story. Why is it myterious? Well, suffice to say, there is a tomb there said to belong to a saintly person know as Sharif Muhammad Al-Baghdadi, the man said to have inscribed the famous Batu Bersurat (inscribed stone of) Terengganu 700 years ago! That's all... Now my juice is starting to flow for the next writing... :]

Now, Danau Tok Uban...

Note: Another adaptation from CATATAN SI MERAH SILU. An almost direct translation of the Malay one made yesterday in a rush!

Time is running out while I still have 2-3 stories to let out before I can feel satisfied. Ah... Just do it...

After leaving Bukit Panau last Wednesday, I got a bus up to the junction to get to Tok Uban... Never thought Danau Tok Uban, the mysterious destination next on my list is rather far from there, almost or more than 10km away while I can't see any public transport coming in. So I have no choice but to walk far dragging all my goods... Quite a while later then I got to hitchike a lorry which is supposedly headed for Danau Tok Uban...

On the way, the lorry driver said he must stop at a village to pick-up some workers. He said, then they will go to Danau Tok Uban.

I just obliged. As it turns out, not only I have to wait long before the workers in question showed up. I was then taken to another village where they want to cut down an old rubber tree to be used as furniture wood. Don't know how long all these will take if I want to wait until the tree is cut into pieces small enough to be carried up the lorry... And so I had to walk far again...

Some time later, arrived at the small town of Tok Uban... The people there were amazed to see me walking alone carrying a big rucksack while dragging along the carriage which is part of "Berpetualang ke Aceh" book series promotion kit under the hot blazing sun...

Posing a minute in front of a school... After some time, someone took me up and drove me to Danau Tok Uban... From the school, I've walked almost 2 km before getting transport... As it turns out, there's another 3 km to go before I got there!

Look at the trees around Danau Tok Uban... Feels like somewhere overseas! They say because there's a lot of Tembusu tree. I just nodded... Not that I know which one is Tembusu which one is not... What I do know, the trees here do look different!

The first time I arrived here was in 2004, following a friend who was shooting a local drama there... The story-line involves scenes which are supposed to happen in England. And so Danau Tok Uban is chosen as one of the 'overseas' location...

There, the wide expanse of lake known as Danau Tok Uban... But maybe most people don't realise how big it is because of the kiambang (a kind of growth on water, sorry can't find the English word off-hand) covering most of the surface...

Apparent behind is Bukit (the hill of) Panau in the province of Tanah Merah. The Danau (lake) is situated in the region of Pasir Mas.

The white mosque built by the Sultan of Brunei across the lake leaves a lot of questions... Why built it there? Is there a secret behind it?

The lake seen from a different angle...

Part of the only restaurant in the area...

"Berpetualang ke Aceh" poster 'hanging-out' beside the jetty...

The restaurant seen from far...

A picture taken from a part of the restaurant floating on water, immediately after waking up from an afternoon nap...

Snap a pix of this tree... The promotion kit also wants to pose along, haha!

The picture above and below were taken from the Brunei mosque but that is another story...:]

Climbing Bukit Panau

Note: This article was made Tuesday in Sik, Kedah after the all-Malay version for CATATAN SI MERAH SILU was completed in Baling on Monday.

Bukit Panau, the legendary hill in Kelantan.

Let me be brief... I'm running out of time as I planned to go to Langgar, Kedah this afternoon. And I'm also very tired because of travelling here and there for over a week including walking for miles, if summed up I feel not less than 30km!

Bukit Panau is situated in the province of Tanah Merah, Kelantan. Among old local folks, it is famous as a place for people of old to polish their martial skills apart from doing meditations. In fact some believe, Bukit Panau is actually the Bukit Pancalusa mentioned in the old Malay text Hikayat Hang Tuah as one of the place where Admiral Hang Tuah learnt the art of war, it is said from a master named Adi Putra.

According to certain sources, Adi Putra is also known as Sheikh Samman or Sayyid Thanauddin who is one of the members of Wali Tujuh (the seven saints). The group headed by an Ahlul Bait, a progeny of Prophet Muhammad SAW by the name of Sayyid Hussein Jamadil Kubra is estimated to have arrived at the Malay lands in the 14 century AD or so.

There are people who said, Bukit Panau was also the place of residence of Puteri Sa'adong, the famous princess in Kelantanese folklore. Others said, Puteri Sa'adong actually lived at Bukit Marak (I don' know where it is), while some said she did stay at Bukit Marak before moving on to Bukit Panau.

Maybe the princess followed the footsteps of her adopted mum Chek Siti Wan Kembang who used to lived in Tanah Merah, in an old country known as Tanah Sekebun Bunga Cherang Tenggayong before 'retiring' to the Gunung Stong, Gunung Ayam area at Ulu Kelantan? Whatever, let me just tell the easy part... About how I felt while climbing up the 234-metre high legendary hill!

Upon arriving at Tanah Merah by the 5.30am train from Gua Musang, I was immediately halted by a taxi driver... He asked where do I want to go, I said Bukit Panau. How much is the fare? RM12. I answered back, there's no need, let me just find a bus... It's different if the fare is shared with others as I have to cut down cost...

I was about to leave the train station area... At once the taxi driver called, there are others going there too, but only up to the villages at the foot of the hill. I just followed... To cut a long story short, I was left at the foothill before starting the climb.

Actually, my stamina is not that strong as it's been a while since I did any sports... My age is also approaching 40 and I'm actually not that well because of certain disturbances, no need to elaborate what are the disturbances.

Thank God, I still have the strong spirit and some 'old folks' tips' practiced which makes me able to take a huge amount of physical and mental load... At least could continue the climb although my breathing is starting to go heavy.

Just looking at such a steep route like this can break one's spirit from continuing the climb especially when one's breathing is starting to get out of pace...

Thank you God, the climb goes on... About 15-20 minutes later, arrived at the transmission station marking the summit is near...

From the station, I was urged to take a path to the right until arriving at a steep hillside with a magnificent view of Sungai Kelantan... Truly this is God's doing! Praise be to God!

Look at this! Beautiful isn't it?

When the steep hill-side is examined, it is apparent the rocks have been colourfully painted... Feels like the job of some Hindu adherents who wants to worship something. I got the opportunity to do the Dhuha (Islamic optional pre-afternoon prayer) using the wudhuk (ritual purification by water) performed earlier at a pool near the foothill.

This small transmission tower marks the actual summit of Bukit Panau. Enough ya!

Kuala Lipis, a cute town!

Peace be upon you friends and readers. The last time I made any postings in my blogspots was on Monday last week in Raub, the 141th posting in CATATAN SI MERAH SILU, 66th in BERPETUALANG KE ACEH and 33th in SENI LAMA MELAYU (MALAY OLDEN ART) . The next day in Kuala Lipis, I did some corrections and additions in my writings but no new posting.

As explained in my last posting at CATATAN SI MERAH SILU in the article Ketinggalan dua buah bas... I have an obsession with numbers. And so, after making a number of postings which adds up to numbers which had a certain meaning for this self, I pledged not to make any new postings until a suitable date arrives.

Today enters 1st of Rejab, the Islamic month said to be the month of God. So comes the time to break the ice. For information, I'm currently in Baling Kedah... Yesterday, I managed to visit some areas associated with the legendary figure Raja Bersiong (the king with fangs!), after spending 5 nights in Kelantan including at the Brunei mosque in Danau Tok Uban and the mosque of Tok Kenali in Kubang Kerian.

Here, I will start telling stories again. Let us start with pictorial stories on Kuala Lipis ya, the last town where I made some additions in the blogspot (but no new posting, just some additions in the article Ketinggalan dua buah bas...) This is it...

Oh! For information, Kuala Lipis is said to be the first capital of 'modern' Pahang. What is meant by modern here is that it was the capital after Pahang went under English (or British) rule, starting in the 1880s, a period which also saw Bendahara (something like Prime Minister) Wan Ahmad raised to become Sultan (like a king) with the colonialist's support.

Kuala Lipis is situated some 60km from Raub. It was named after the estuary (kuala) of the Lipis river not far away, the estuary which met Sungai Jelai, one of the main rivers in Pahang.

For me, Kuala Lipis has it's own attractions especially the existence of old pre-World War Two buildings which are rather 'cute'. Hmm... Let's continue with pictures ya...

This is the first picture taken immediately upon arriving at Kuala Lipis. A Mercedes with plate number WGW 3300 parked in-line with the minaret of the old mosque of Kuala Lipis seemed to hold a certain meaning for me.

Look carefully. The parking lot is of the same height and level as the bus station where I embarked from Raub. In turn, the old mosque built in 1888 is situated some 15 feet under while behind the mosque, there lies the river of Jelai with its normal water level at 20 feet more underneath.

According to the locals, Kuala Lipis once suffered from severe flood which reached the bus station. What is weird, the old mosque was not touched by the flood although it is situated at lower ground!

The main mosque of Kuala Lipis seen from the train station...

Kuala Lipis train station. At first, I planned to take the 2.30 or 3.15pm bus to Kelantan. After that, there won't be any service until 3 in the morning! But I was so engrossed making corrections and additions to the blogspot at an Internet Cafe until I missed both trains!

This is the food and beverage area in front of the road towards the train station... It felt so alive, so I stopped a while for coffee.

Soon enough, I feel like taking pictures. As soon as this one is taken, an Indian gentlemen in the picture (the one looking away) asked that the picture not be entered in the newspapers! What! Does he think I'm a reporter? Hah! :]

This is the bus station of Kuala Lipis. Had the time to hang the promotional poster for the "Berpetualang ke Aceh" book series under the station's sign-board...

I stopped by at some stalls for tea... There appeared an Indian man pushing so much goods. Felt like recording it...

Hawkers selling durian in front of the bus station

The old Indian man showed up again, pulling a different set of goods!

This is a picture of the bridge crossing Sungai Jelai taken from inside the 6pm bus to Gua Musang, Kelantan. After missing the afternoon trains, I must choose whether to wait till the wee hours for the next train, sleep at Kuala Lipis or find another means to get to Kelantan. Felt unpatient to go to Kelantan... It happens there's still enough time to get the only bus to Gua Musang... So there I went for the day! Bye! :]